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An original pioneer of androgynous modes of dress, the author Radclyffe Hall inherited a sum of money in her early Twenties which, feminist author Katrina Rolley once explained, "allowed her to live independently from her family and to discard the 'feminine' clothes chosen by her mother in favour of tailor-made styles." Hall fully embraced this sartorial liberty and used it to visibly declare the respective roles she and her partner Una Troubridge played in their relationship – with Una by far the more feminine of the two – in one of the first open examples of public lesbianism. Her proclivity towards masculine dress was succinctly explored in her renowned novella, The Well of Loneliness, which bore abundant parallels to her own experiences, and explained of her protagonist that "her legs felt so free and comfortable in breeches; she adored pockets too, and these were forbidden – at least really adequate pockets.” "I am sincere in my preference for my men's clothes – I do not wear them to be sensational," said Marlene Dietrich of her proclivity for a trouser suit. "I think I am much more alluring in these clothes." And alluring she was; when she attended a 1932 film premiere wearing a tuxedo it made waves throughout Hollywood – and beyond – for breaking gender norms, and doing so with such compelling impact. “Katharine Hepburn was the patron saint of the independent American female,” wrote Mary McNamara in her eulogy for the iconic actress – and such a grandiose statement is certainly apt here. So determined was Hepburn to wear the trousers in her career that, when her (custom-made) blue jeans were confiscated from her dressing room by the movie executives at RKO, she was rumoured to turn up on set in her knickers. "Any time I hear a man say he prefers a woman in a skirt, I say, ‘Try one,’” she once said. Staunch subversion at its quippy best. When Yves Saint Laurent designed Le Smoking, it "was a radical change for professional women, who could wear a practical suit which also looked elegant,” wrote Bianca Jagger following the death of the master couturier. "It was part of my liberation to be able to wear trouser suits because it makes life so easy." One of the first women to embrace his then-revolutionary designs, Jagger proudly championed the new silhouette for women – and her ease when wearing such pieces makes it hard to believe that such a decision was ever fraught with gender politics. And then there was Bowie . "I really wanted, more than anything else, to contribute some in way to the culture I was living in," said the musical legend in 2002 – and, of course, he did.

For the original version including any supplementary images or video, visit http://www.vogue.co.uk/gallery/fashion-androgynous-icons-annie-lennox-prince-david-bowie

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Khartoum at Night looks at Sudanese history through fashion

Historically, it was an elite garment — imported and expensive. However, as trade routes increased, cheaper versions became available. Second, the garment had been reserved for married women. But in the 20th century unmarried women began to wear the tobe as well. Girls adopted it to wear to school, and a white tobe edged with blue stripes became the uniform for medical midwives.” The history of tobes reveals other things about Sudanese women’s social status, too. From the 1930s through the ’50s, more women and girls were educated. Those who became nurses and midwives, for instance, had their own money to spend on fashionable garments and not simply uniforms. “All of a sudden, there is an explosion in styles of tobes,” Brown said. “Patterns appear on fabric in greater variety. To keep them straight, women and merchants started naming the patterns.

For the original version including any supplementary images or video, visit http://news.ku.edu/2017/08/07/khartoum-night-looks-sudanese-history-through-fashion

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